Morgon `Côte du Py`, Jean-Marc Burgaud, Beaujolais, France, 2021
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Jean-Marc Burgaud was recently dubbed ‘Monsieur Côte du Py’ by Bourgogne Aujourd’hui magazine. His fine domaine has seven hectares of vineyard on the Côte du Py in Morgon, making the Burgaud family the biggest owner of vines on this famous hill. Jean-Marc is originally from Lantignié and his wife, Christine, is from Morgon, the 11.5 hectares in Morgon were inherited from her side of the family. “My father used to tell me that Lantignié produced the best Beaujolais, but when I first met Christine, her father opened a 20-plus-year-old bottle of Côte du Py for me and that opened my eyes to the potential of Beaujolais,” he explains. Today, the domaine has 18 hectares of vineyards across Beaujolais Villages, Morgon and Régnié. Maceration lasted only nine days in 2019, with daily pumping over, to achieve the desired level of extraction. All the grapes were fermented as whole bunches which Jean-Marc refers to as 'sémi macération carbonique'. Jean-Marc Burgaud has 4.5 hectares in Morgon outside of Côte du Py. Morgon Les Charmes comes from granitic soils located to the west of Morgon which produce a poised, expressive and slightly more approachable Morgon than the structured Cote du Py. The 60 year- old vines are gobelet trained and planted at a high density to reduce the Gamay's natural vigour and increase concentration.
Food pairing ideas: the wine pairs brilliantly with a pâté to start, or roast duck turned into rillettes, then luscious braised beef stew, or a juicy lamb or beef burger. Producers to watch from Morgon: Foillard makes a full-of-life gorgeous floral-fruit 'Cuvee Corcelette' and a more rustic and lightly earthy 'Cote du Py. 100% Gamay.
The wine boasts an expressive dark fruit character, with lifted acidity and a finely-grained tannic structure, which concludes with a intense, long finish.