D Millésimé, Devaux, Champagne, France, 2008

Devaux was founded in 1846 by brothers Jules and Auguste Devaux, and was family owned for more than a century. Today, Devaux is owned by the Union Auboise, a co-operative in the Côte des Bar, the heartland of Pinot Noir in Champagne, where the grapes are in huge demand from the top producers. Physically closer to Chablis than Reims or Épernay, the vines are grown on Burgundian soils of Kimmeridgian marl and Portlandian limestone. The wine was fermented in stainless steel, followed by partial malolactic fermentation to give extra suppleness (52% did not undergo malolactic). Following fermentation, the liqueur de tirage was added and the wine underwent a slow second fermentation in bottle, and extended ageing on its lees for seven to eight years. This resulted in a wine with a finer, more persistent mousse and greater potential for complexity. After disgorgement, the wine received a Brut dosage of around 6g/l and was aged for a further six to nine months before release. 2008 was initially a difficult year with widespread mildew. However, drier conditions in August and a fine, warm September helped to balance the ripening of the grapes. The 2008 wines have fresh acidity balanced by sound ripeness achieved towards the end of the season. The "D Collection" wines are Devaux's very best. The grapes come from highly select, sustainably farmed parcels across 50 hectares. The majority of the vineyards are situated in the Aube on Kimmeridgian limestone-clay soils. This continental location, on the slopes of the Côte des Bars, is important; it gives the Pinot Noir richness on the nose and a long finish, while retaining finesse. The Chardonnay in the blend is grown on the fine chalky soils of the Côte des Blancs, Vitry and Montgueux ("the Meursault of Champagne") to give liveliness and elegance.